Collar



- June 15 1926. 1,588,878

5. J. DORMANDY COLLAR I Filed Jan. 24, 1924 Patented June 15, 1926.

UNITED STATES teasers sa'rssr orr'iciz.

GARRY J. DORMANDY, 0F TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO LION" COLLARS &SHIRTS, ING., OF TROY, YORK, A QOBEORATION OF NEW YORK.

COLLAR.

Application filed January 24, 1924. Serial No. 688,172.

As is well known, it is desirable in numerous collars that the longerofthe two extensions at the ends of the neckband point higher than theband, or form a lock-end, so-called. That is to say, it is oftendesirable that the upper edge of the long exten sion form a reentrantangle with the upper edge ofthe body of the neckband. Such an upturnedextension is adapted to interlock underneath the fold at the oppositeend of the collar and this helps to hold the points of the collartogether and improves the fit about the neck. Usually this upturned eX-tension is cut from the band material integral with the body portion ofthe neckbank. My invention is directed toward providing such an upturnedextension on collars in which the material of the band is such that itis unadapted to provide an integral extension pointing higher than thebody of the band, particularly when the upper edge of the neckband isformedby the salvage ofthe material from which the neckband is cut. Themanner in which I do this will be understood from the followingdescriptionof particular applications of my invention, from which itwill also be apparent that the invention is applicable to the shorter ofthe two end extensions if desired, or to both extensions.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure 1 is an elevation of theinsidesurface of a foldover collar embodying my invention, thecollar beingopened out fiat; Figures 2, 3 and 4 are similar elevations of singleends of other collars showing modifications; Figure 5 is a section ofthecollar of Fig. 1 on line 5-5 Figure 6 is an elevationof a single endof a further modification, and Figure? is a section thereof on the line77 Figure 8 illustrates how double selvaged material may be employed toreduce waste.

The collar construction shown in Figs. 1 to 5 does not differ materiallyfrom that i which has long beencommon, except that the upper edge of theband is selvaged and that the collars incorporate my invention. The bandis composed of separate blanks or layers 1 and 20f any suitable fabricwhich is so cut from lengths of cloth that the natural selvage of thewoven cloth forms the top edge of the body of the band blanks, i. e.from point A to point B. In the customary manner the blanks areinfolded. (for finish) a and sewn together at the lower edge 3 and knownmanner. As is understood, the selvage atthe top of the band blanksfurnishes adequate finish in itself and hence renders it unnecessary toinfold theband material at this seam. 'By this means therefore thenumber of thicknesses of fabric at this seam is reduced to a minimum anda sharp-edge folding of the fold-over is made possible. Since howeverthe upper edges of the main or body portions of the band blanks (from, Ato B). are in fact the extreme edges of the fabrics from which theblanks are cut, it is obviously impossible to socut thegoods that theupturned extension or lock-end 10, the upper edge of which forms areentrant angle with the edge A-B of the band body, is integral with thebody portion ofthe band blanks, for the edge of the goods is necessarilysubstantially straight, or possibly is slightly curved in the oppositedirection. The lock-end 10, it will be understood, is to extend underthe top or fold-over 5' at the opposite end of the collar, so as to holdthe points of the collar together and support the front of the collarwhere the pressure of the neck or chin-is likely to break it down. To

provide a rising extension therefore, of

seam or seams as 13, the outer one of which at least is disposedsuiliclently to the rear to be well covered by the fold-over 5 andthereby concealed from view when the collar is in use. As shown inFigure 1, for example. the upper edge ofthe upturned extension pieces 11and 12 may be carried straight back to the bottom of the band, thelatter being cut off at a corresponding angle and the body and extensionpieces being sewn together at 13 where they come in contact. Preferablyat least so much of the edges of the extension pieces 11 and 12 are sewnto the band body pieces (from B to C in Figure 1) are selvaged edges andthe body pieces are inserted and sewn betweenthese selvages, the latterbeingunfolded and laid flat against the out side of the body blanks ofthe ban d (Fig. for this produces a finished seam containing a minimumnumber of thicknesi of fabric. In the Qt truction of F 1, th' alsobrings the St?l\ V of the e); sion blanks 11 and 12 to the upper edge Eof the completed er;- tension 10 and requires no infolding or otherfinishing; at this edge, although infolding or other finishing; may beresorted to if desired. The remaining edges of the extension members 1usually infold or they may be otherw se finished. Tire joining of thetwo blanks or member 11 and 12 of the extension is completed by a lineor lines of stitching as indicated by the broken lines in the drawing.Figure illustrates a consiructhin in which the joining seam between theextension and the body of the band is farther to the rear of the collar;this may be desirable to conceal the same in certain styles of collars.In this form, the exten sion blanks 11 and 12 may be selvagcd from C toD as before, and intolded for finish from D to B and elsewhere. Incertain cases or with certain kinds of collars the seam or seams may bebrought further to the front (Fig. 3). Figure a illustrates that theband pieces are not necessarily inserted between selvaged edges of theextension blanks. In this instance the body and extension blanks aresewn together by entirely internal seams; this may be accomplished invarious ways. for example by a process which inyolves hand turning ofthe band after these pieces have been sewn together in a manner thatwill be understood by those skilled in the art. The broken lines 15 and16 indicate the ends of the body blank and the extension blankrespectively after the same have been sewn together and then turned backand ironed fiat against the inside of the band.

Since the band extensions may be made of any material, quite independentof the material used in the body of the hand, my invention has thefurther advantage that it may be used to improve the appearance of thecollar in certain instances. Thus in certain instances it is desirablethat the band and the fold-over be made of different materials. Bymaking the long extension blanks or at least the outer blank 12 thereof(i. c. the one more remote from, the neck of the wearer) of the samematerial as the fold-over, the collar when in use will seem to be madeof a single material throughout and a better appearance presented thanis the case where that part of the band material which is exposedbetween ends of the foidover above the tie is a quite different fabricfrom that of the fold-over.

In the described constructions of Figs. 1 to 3. it will be observed thatthe number of thicknesses of fabric at the seam or seams 13, equals atleast the sum of the number of thicknesses of fabric in the body of theband plus the number of thicknesses in the extension. In the presentinstance there are four thicknesses at this scam line, see Figure 5.Ordinarily this extra thickness at these seams will not be objectionablebut it is possible to reduce their number by otli'setting these seams asillustrated in Figs. 6 and 7. In these figures the top edges of theextension blanks 11 and 12 are assumed to be selraged as in Figure 1(from C to B and at E). The inner extension blank 11 in Figure (5 (thatone of the two blanks which is nearer the neck of the wearer) is set ata somewhat greater angle to the bottom edge of the hand than the outerextension blank. The scam 1? between the outer extension blank 12 andthe outer blank 2 of the body of the band is somewhat higher and fartherto the rear therefore than the seam 18 between the inner extension blank11 and the inner body blank 1, so that the combined seams are somc whatwider than before, but in no part incorporate more than threethicknesses of cloth (Fig. 7). Furthermore, for illustrative purposesthe bottom ecges of the blanks 1 and 2 of the band body of Figure (3 maybe assuu'red to be selvancd edges like the upper edges of the band; thatis to say, these body blanks 1 and Q are cut from fabric that is wovenof exactly the same width as the body blanks. This practice leads tocertain economies in the cutting of the fabric, for a portion of thewoven material which other wise is discarded as waste, can be readilyused effectively because of the two selvanes which the strip n'iaterialpresents fO'r use. Thus for example. Figure 8 illustrates a strip ofband material of the same width as the body blanks 1 and 2 of the collarto be made from it, and both edges of which are selvaged. By cuttingthis narrow strip of fabric alongthe broken line 21, the angular end (Cto B) of one body blank is formed ready for stitching; to an extensionmember. By cutting); oti a piece of the remaining nut-- terial along thebroken line 22, an extension member or blank 11 or 12 is formed;reversing this extension blank, the bottom selvag'c of the strip at 2?)becomes the top selvage of the extension blank. i. e. from G to B and atE. Finally. cutting; the remaining end of the strip alone the line formsthe short-extension end of the next body blank, and the process is thenrepeated for the entire length of the strip of fabric. The sole part ofthe material wasted therefore is that of the small pieces lying betweenthe cutting: lines 22 and 21-. It is not necessary that the extensionblank 11 or 12 obtained in this way, be attached to the body blank fromwhich it is originally cut; it may be assembled in another collar orwith a body blank cut from another strip of material. Thereforejudicious assembly of extension part of the collar, and that it is notlimited to the exact construction illustrated and clescribed aboveexcept as appears in the following claims.

Claims-- 1. A collar comprising a band member,

- the upper edge of the main or body portion of which band member is aselva ed edge, and which band member has a separately cut upturnedextension attached to one end of its main or body portion and whichextension reaches to a point above said upper edge of the main or bodyportion of the band member.

2. The steps in the method of making a woven fabric collar whichconsists in cutting the band body portion from a woven fabric,separately cutting from a woven fabric a piece to extend from the end ofsaid band body portion and form at its upper edge a re-entrant anglewith the upper edge of said body portion, and sewing substantially theedge of said piece to substantially the end of said band body portion.

8. The steps in the method of making a fold-over collar from wovenfabric which is unadapted to provide an integral lock end, whichconsists in cutting the body portion of the band shorter than thefold-over at one end so that said end of the band body lies underneaththe fold-over, separately cutting from woven fabric a lock-end piece toextend from said short end of the band body and form at its upper edge are-entrant angle with the upper edge of said band body, and sewingsubstantially the edge of said piece to substantially said end of saidband body, so that the seam is concealed by the fold-over when thecollar is in use and there is produced on said end of the collar a lockend adapted to extend under the fold-over at the opposite end of thecollar and support the front where the pressure of the neck and chintend to break down the front.

4. A collar comprising a neckband body member, the upper edge of whichis selvage, a separate fold-over member attached to said selvaged edge,and a separate extension member attached to an end of said band bodymember and reaching to a point above the upper edge of said body member.

5. A collar comprising a neckband body member, the upper ed 'e of whichis selvage, a separate fold-over member attached to said selvaged edge,and a separate extension member, the upper edge of which is selvage andis sewn fiat against one end of said band body member, and saidextensionmember reaching above the upper edge of said body member tointerlock underneath the fold-over at the other end of the collar.

6. A collar comprising two neckband body members the upper edges ofwhich are selvages, a separate fold-over inserted between the same andsewn thereto, and an upturned interlocking extension at one end of theneckband consisting of two members the upper edges of which are selvagesand are laid flat against the outside of said neckband members and sewnthereto.

7. A collar comprising a neckband body portion, a fold-over, and aseparately cut upwardly pointing extension at one end of the bandconsisting of two layers of fabric sewn to opposite sides of theneckband body, one of said layers reaching farther to the rear of thecollar than the other and the two layers being sewn to the neckbandportion by individual lines of stitching.

8. A collar comprising a band member, which band member has aseparately-cut tension attached to one end of its main or body portion,one of the two longitudinal edges of the main or body portion of theband member being a selmge edge and the corresponding edge of theextension forming a re-entrant angle with said selvage edge.

In testimony whereof, I have signed this specification.

GARRY J. DOB-MANDY.

